Estimates only, actual price may vary. Updated Jan 1, 2007:

• $285: Bolt-on factory fretless 4 string, neck only. Send entire bass w/ *setup: $325 
• $335: Bolt-on fretted 4 string, neck only.  Entire bass w/ restring** & setup: $375
• $360: Neck-through fretless 4 string with setup
• $425: Neck-through fretted 4 string; with restring** and setup

• $315: Bolt-on factory fretless 5 string  neck only. Send entire bass with setup:$360
• $365: Bolt-on fretted 5 string neck only. Entire bass w/ restring** & setup: $405
• $390: Neck-through fretless 5 string; with setup
• $460: Neck-through fretted 5 string; with restring** and setup

• $355: Bolt-on factory fretless 6 string neck only. Send entire bass with setup: $405
• $405: Bolt-on fretted 6 string neck only. Entire bass with restring** & setup: $455
• $445: Neck-through fretless 6 string; with setup
• $495: Neck-through fretted 6 string; with restring** and setup

• $425: Acoustic Bass fretted 4 string
• $375: Acoustic Classical guitar fretted 6 string
• Sky is the limit on a 7 string and higher :-) email for estimate.

• Removal of fingerboard coatings: $50 and up.
• Adding fretlines to a factory fretless unlined bolt-on neck 34" or 30" scales: $100 and up.
• Converting to fretless with factory binding: Add $60.
• 24 frets add $40. 
• Electric guitar fretted 6 string: pricing similar to basses. Sustain is much better with epoxy than on bare wood, but typically less than a bass because of the smaller, lighter strings. Some players use a "Feedbacker" pedal or Sustainer pickups. See and hear an example done on an Epi Casino.

• Many options including new bridges, pickups, preamps, hardware, routing for pickups or battery holder(s) etc are all available here. We carry many major brands. 

*A setup includes restringing, intonation, truss rod, saddle height, pickup height, lube tuners and saddles, clean electronics and check for loose parts. Electronic rework and customization is available.

** Strings extra! We stock major brands.

NOTE: PRICING SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME.

HOW IS THIS EPOXY DONE AND WHAT BRAND DO I USE? I get asked this often. It is very easy to badly damage a bass with both tooling and epoxy, and working with chemicals can be dangerous to your health. Either of those issues are very good reasons to distance myself from any responsibility that may result from offering advice. There are a number of processes and unusual pricey tooling that are employed that would challenge an experienced luthier let alone a do-it-yourself-er, and it has taken me many years to perfect this process.  Sorry! :-)

How to buy

Special Notes :

• To determine if your fretted neck is a good candidate for a fretless conversion, flex the neck when the strings are off. If you can flex it easily visible to the naked eye, it may not be strong enough to provide stability as a fretless with close action. 
• An unstrung neck with no truss rod tension should be fairly straight. I can level out necks to a certain degree. Check to see if there is any twist along the length.
• Some lighter colored woods (such as maple), as well as poorly refretted necks, may show some fret tang discoloration. The wood is compressed in those areas and tends to reflect light a little differently.
• Synthetic fretboards may have issues considered on an individual basis.
• Normally the epoxy is finished to a highly polished uniform surface. Note the deep contrast the wood develops under epoxy:
  
   
  
  But it is possible to leave it in an unpolished state for those who would prefer a satin look:
  
   Note: Maintenance on the satin look will be to dull the surface with fine sandpaper between string changes. Normal use tends to polish the epoxy and thus create shiny spots. No additives are used in the epoxy to create this look.
  
  
• Nuts: In order to surface the epoxy properly, the nut must be removed. Often groove mounted nuts (Fender style) will not release without breaking, and is even more difficult on already fretless basses because the nut material in the groove is so thin. Years of aging glue, use of the wrong glue, and finish may refuse to allow it to release despite my gentle coaxing. In my experience, BONE is the preferred material due to its tone, hardness, workability and good looks. I can install any nut utilizing time tested lutherie techniques and modern geometry. This service is around $44 for 4-strings, $55 for 5 strings, and $66+ for 6 or more strings. Graph Tech, Tusq, Delrin, plastic and Corian are also available if you wish. Any factory fretless nut that comes out whole can be reused with a shim under it to accomodate the higher epoxy. Here are samples of a new custom made bone nut in bleached and natural:
  
  

• There may be minute micro craters visible on the finished surface due to tiny embedded bubbles. These are very small and may be seen only when closely examined. They will not affect playability or tone in any way. I do my best to eliminate them, but some seem to appear regardless.
  
  
• Side markers can be installed. This example on white binding shows where the fretline is:
  
  
  
  
  
  
• High quality hologram flake is applied over the last fret. Normally difficult to be seen without close examination in the light, but will reflect a rainbow of color. This is done to authenticate an original HG Thor epoxy finish (along with a signed invoice), and helps to verify it for warranty status. New for 2008: One dot signifies customer defret, two dots for a factory fretless and, three dots signify a full HG Thor conversion from fretted.
  
         

• Necks previously worked on may require additional labor.
• Sales tax applies to New York State shipments. Return shipping extra.
• Approximately three + weeks in-shop turn around.
• Three year warranty for labor and materials to cover epoxy delamination under normal use.
• Absolutely no refunds!